Saturday, December 21, 2013
The signal jammer is what increases the signal
The signal the external antenna picks up is sent over wires to the signal jammer. The signal jammer is what increases the signal. Your boosted signal is then sent to the internal antenna which wirelessly rebroadcasts a more powerful signal within your space.
Cell blocker operate on different frequencies: 800 MHz, 1900 MHz and iDEN. The 800MHz frequency is compatible with Verizon phones outside of Florida and Texas, Alltel phones in selected states, and US Cellular phones in selected states. T-mobile, Sprint, Metro PCS and several other carries operate on the 1900MHz band. AT&T operates on both bands.
Often the most comprehensive solution is to opt for a Dual Band Cellular jammer. These blocker operate on both the 800 MHz and 1900 MHz bands, ensuring proper coverage with all major carriers. Nextel users in need of a cellular jammer must invest in an iDEN jammer.
Whether you need to amplify cellular signals in a large home, small apartment, warehouse or car, there are cell blocker that are designed for your needs. The following blocker are extremely popular in the cell jammer space and represent some of the different applications for cellular blocker.
One of the most popular cell jammer kits on the market, the YX545 Cellular jammer Kit is dual band, making it compatible with all cell phone carriers except Nextel. This cell jammer can amplify cellular signals in an area of 2,500-3,000 square feet with a 60dB gain, making it ideal for small home and office settings. The YX545 kit features everything you need for set-up and installation, including all the necessary cables and antennae.
The 841262 Dual Band jammer from Wilson Electronics is comparable to the YX545. However, this model amplifies cellular signals up to 5,000 square feet with a slightly higher 62 dB gain. Thus the Wilson 841262 is optimal for application in medium-to-large offices or homes. The standard external antenna, jammer and internal antenna setup applies.
The Wilson Sleek is a unique cell jammer in that it doesnt include a visible internal antenna or a separate jammer component. Designed for use while on-the-go, this cell jammer from Wilson Electronics is simply a cell phone cradle that has an internal antenna built right in.
Saturday, September 28, 2013
The Gentle Touch Circuit Diagram
Consumer appliances these days hardly ever have a proper mains switch. Instead, appliances are turned on and off at the touch of a button on the remote control, just like any other function. This circuit shows how a device (as long as it does not draw too high a current) can be switched on and off using a pushbutton. The approach requires that a microcontroller is already available in the circuit, and a spare input port pin and a spare output port pin are required, along with a little software. When power is applied T1 initially remains turned off. When the button is pressed the gate of T1 is taken to ground and the p-channel power MOSFET conducts. The microcontroller circuit is now supplied with power. Within a short period the microcontroller must take output PB1 high. This turns on n-channel MOSFET T1 which in turn keeps T1 turned on after the push-button is released.
Now the microcontroller must poll the state of the push-button on its input port (PB0) at regular intervals. Immediately after switch-on it will detect that the button is pressed (a low level on the input port pin), and it must wait for the button to be released. When the button is next pressed the device must switch itself of f: to do this the firmware running in the microcontroller must set the output port pin to a low level. When the button is subsequently released T1 will now turn off and the supply voltage will be removed from the circuit.
The circuit itself draws no current in the off state, and for (rechargeable) battery-powered appliances it is therefore best to put the switch before the voltage regulator. For mains-powered devices the switch can also be fitted before the voltage regulator (after the rectifier and smoothing capacitor). Since there is no mains switch there will still be a small standby current draw in this case due to the transformer. Be careful not to exceed the maximum gate-source voltage specification for T1: the IRFD9024 device suggested can withstand up to 20 V. At lower voltages R2 can be replaced by a wire link; otherwise suitable values for the voltage divider formed by R1 and R2 must be selected.
Circuit diagram:
The Gentle Touch Circuit Diagram
The author has set up a small website for this project at http://reweb.fh-weingarten.de/elektor, which gives source code examples (which include dealing with pushbutton contact bounce) for AVR microcontrollers suitable for use with AVR Studio and GNU C. Downloads are also available at http://www.elektor.com.
Rainer Reusch - Elektor Electronics 2008
Sunday, April 21, 2013
Real Time Clock Using the PIC16CXXX
Upon power-up, the device is initialized with the display starting at 12:00 PM, and Timer1 is configured to generate an interrupt (every second). The Timer1 overflow interrupt wakes the device from sleep. This causes the time registers (HRS, MIN, SECS) to be updated. If the SECS register contains an even value (SECS<0> = 0), the colon (":") is not displayed. This gives a visual indication for each second. Then the device returns to sleep.
Real Time Clock Circuit Diagram

This simplify design use a standard Hitachi LCD display module and some other electronic parts .
The RA2:RA0 pins are the control signals to the LCD display, RB3:RB0 acts as a 4-bit data bus, and RB7:RB5 are the input switches. The OSC1 pin is connected to an RC network, which generates an approximate 4 MHz device frequency. Because Timer1 operates asynchronously to the device, the devices oscillator can be configured for RC mode.
Timer1’s crystal is connected to the T1OSI and T1OSO pins. A good choice for a crystal is a 32.786 kHz (watch) crystal.
This electronic project and source code was designed by Mark Palmer Microchip Technology Inc.
Monday, April 8, 2013
How to choose the best for your home theater system

Saturday, April 6, 2013
Easy The flashing Heart
Buying a gift for someone special or a loved one can sometimes be difficult or expensive. The flashing heart is the answer. It is easy to build and even the inexperienced hobbyist should be able to build it. The estimated cost for the circuit is $25 if all the parts are purchased new. With The Flashing Heart, you can get your message across in bright lights.
The Circuit Diagram is shown in Figure 1. It consists of a 4047 low-power monostable/astable multivibrator, IC1, used in the astable mode to provide the timing pulses to control the flash rate of the LEDs. To accomplish the astable mode, pins 4, 5, 6, and 14 are connected to +12VDC and pins 7, 8, 9, and 12 are connected to ground. Pins 1 and 3 are connected to C2 and pins 2 and 3 are connected to potentiometer R9. A fixed value resistor can be used in place of the potentiometer R9, if the flash rate does not need to be adjusted. These three pins make up the R-C timing circuit. The output pulses from the 4047 are taken from pins 10, 11, and 13. Pin 10 is the Q output and pin 11 is the Q-not output. These two pins are onnected to R6 and R7 respectively.
The collectors of Q2 and Q3 are connected to R4 and R5 respectively, which are connected to the cathodes of the Yellow LEDs. Pin 13 is the oscillator output and is connected to R8, which is connected to the base of Q1. The collector of Q1 is connected to R3, which is connected to the cathodes of the Red LEDs. The emitters of the three transistors are connected to ground. The Green LEDs are connected to R1 and R2, which are connected to +12VDC. Resistors R1-R8 are current limiting resistors and the correct wattage for these resistors should be used to prevent excessive heat. The resistive values may be changed to vary the brightness of the LEDs. The circuit is powered by PS1, a wall transformer, which is connected to a filter capacitor C1. It must be between 10 to 15 VDC and at least 500mA.
Probably the most difficult part of this project is making the printed circuit board, Figure 2. The board used in the prototype took several hours to make using dry transfers. Using a different technique, such as photo resist, may be faster for the experienced hobbyist. Once the board is etched and drilled, the jumper wires should be placed on the board and soldered, as shown on Figure 3. Next the 84 Yellow LEDs should be placed around the border of the board, followed by the 42 Red LEDs that make up the heart and then the 16 Green LEDs that make up the letters I and U. Resistors R1-R9 and capacitors C1and C2 should be placed on the board next and then the power supply, PS1. Sockets were used in the prototype for the I.C. and transistors. A socket for the I.C. is required, but the sockets for the transistors are not. Special care should be taken when handling the CMOS I.C., as a static discharge will destroy it. When you are finished soldering, check the board over for mistakes. If everything looks okay, apply power.
Once power has been applied to the circuit, the Red LEDs should all be flashing on and off together. The Yellow LEDs should be flashing on and off, but only every other Yellow LED should be on at one time. The Green LEDs will stay on at all times. The flash rate can be adjusted by turning R9. Connections for a fixed value resistor for R9 are provided on the board layout if preferred.To dress up the project, a favorite photograph can be placed in the heart, and a frame can be made to fit the circuit board.
Parts List | |||||
Resistors | |||||
R1, R2 | - | 470 ohm, 1/2-watt | |||
R3-R5 | - | 100 ohm, 3-watt | |||
R6-R8 | - | 1000 ohm, 1.4-watt | |||
R9 | - | 5000 ohm potentiometer | |||
Capacitors | |||||
C1, C2 | - | 100uF, 16 volts, electrolytic radial | |||
Semiconductors | |||||
IC1 | - | 4047, low power monostable/astable multivibrator | |||
Q1-Q3 | - | 2n3643 NPN transistor or equivalent | |||
Diodes | |||||
LED1-LED84 | - | yellow light-emitting diode | |||
LED85-LED126 | - | red light-emitting diode | |||
LED127-LED142 | - | green light-emitting diode | |||
Other components | |||||
PS1 | - | 12VDC @ 500mA wall transformer | |||
Miscellaneous: Jumper wire, solder, printed circuit board, | |||||
drill and bits,14 pin I.C. socket, and a frame or case. | sourced by : link |
Thursday, April 4, 2013
The damage Horizontal LG TV
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LG TV |